Le Mulot WI6+R & 2 more
Rivière Sainte-Marguerite, Côte Nord
Approach: From the Riviere Sainte-Marguerite dam (Google maps link)
Download GPS Track for Main Approach
All the lines on this wall are world class. From the Riviere Sainte-Marguerite dam follow the skidoo trail (by skidoo or skis preferably) that goes on the river until km 8. On the left, many big lines are present. To name a few, from left to right: L'appartement, Le Mulot, Never-Ending Story, L'envol, La Route des Baleines, le Pillier Simon-Proulx, Speedy Gonzales (locally named Christian Proulx).
Follow the trail marked by historical gear on the trees until the slope below the wall. Take left. Gear up before the WI3 approach ice and snow.
Le Mulot(yellow), Never-Ending Story(blue), L'envol(green) and La Route des Baleines(red).
Le Mulot WI6+R 190m
Le Mulot is the most left hand line of this wall.
Start the rolling ice ramps on the left. There's one bolt anchor to the left of the ice.
P1. WI4 75m. Climb rolling ice steps up and right and make an anchor in a cave.
P2. WI6+ 60m. Second pitch goes up and left into the corner. Climb a wi6+ corner on gentle chandeliers with not a lot of protection. After the corner continue straight up into the good cave to the left of the main ice flow.
P3. WI6 60m.Continue the main ice flow above the cave for another great pitch. Exit to the right.
Stas and Caro at the end of P1 of Les Mulots. Crédit photo Stéphane St-Laurent.
Never-Ending Story WI6R M7 175m
Never-Ending Story is a beautiful line in the middle of the wall. It starts from end of the first pitch of L'Envol and Le Mulot.
P1. Climb the same rolling ice ramps as for Le Mulot and L'Envol for 70m into the base of an ice pillar. WI4.
P2. From the top of an ice pillar follow rock dihedral up and left, through some bolts and cams to where it ends up in the roof. Traverse right into the freehanging Meduse through a bolt. Continue up to the base of the freestanding pillar. 40m, WI6, M7
P3. Climb the pillar and continue straight up curtains and icicles. 65m, WI6+
Stas climbs the P2 of Never-Ending Story. Crédit photo Caroline Ouellet.
La Route des Baleines WI7 M9
La Route des Baleines is the most right hand line. This line will take your mind away and leave you wondering on what planet are you.
P1. Start from the snow ledge that serves as a start for all the lines on this wall. Traverse the slope up and right into the the rightmost line of ice. Climb rolling ice up and right into a a steep ice flow (featured àn ice roof on the first ascent) through one bolt on the right. Continue straight to 2 columns just under the first mixed section. 60m wi6. Can be linked with a second pitch for one full on 75m pitch.
P2. Climb the rock at m6+ through 2 bolts into the ice roof. Easier if the icicle isn't broken, then you can stem into it. Continue straight up into the perfect ledge on the right side on an ice pillar. 15m.
P3. Start the pillar and get into the bombay chimney. Climb the pitch through 3 bolts and rock gear up to #3. Sometimes this pitch has a lot of free hanging ice, which makes the M part easier and gives you some wild gyrations and transitions in the space. Continue up free hanging icicles and thin ice steps into a huge cave with bolted anchors. M9 WI6 65m.
P4. Go up and left until you see the exit, which can be very engaging. Sometimes a free standing pillar forms right above the anchors, which will give it a beautiful direct start. Continue right and then straight up through steep ice. WI7- 60m.
Stas climbs the P1 of la Route des Baleines. Crédit photo Stéphane St-Laurent.
