One of the classiest lines in Quebec. Located in Parc Les Hautes Gorges, it offers 330 meters of pure ice, no walking in between. Grade can vary from 6 early in the season to 4+/5 mid season. In the past the only way of approach was to ski in 38 km. Lucky nowadays this is not the case. Today one can drive all the way to Dam des Erables, which shortens the approach by 33 km. Location of the parking___ One should register for climbing, which can be done by filling up a from, which forms are located at the entrance to the 24/7 open washrooms of the main building. Follow the river on the ice up north. 4.4 km in you come to a narrow spot on the river and to the big boulder some 20 meters from the shore on the left side. All the lines are visible at this point. From there find the beginning of the flagged trail which will take you up and gradually right to the gully at the beginning of the climbing. 40 min to an hour and half from the river depending on the amount of snow.
P1, WI4, 30m
Climb the gully to where the angle eases out. Bolted anchors in the bowl on the right.
P2, WI3, 40m
Leave the gully and climb up and left into the main ice flow in a good year. Bolted anchors to the right of the main flow. In a bad year climb up the gully for another 10m and then climb up blocky terrain with some gear to a slinged bush.
P3, WI3, 40m
Keep climbing the main flow to where it steepens up. Bolted anchors on the slanting ledge on the right. If the previous pitch was done through the mixed terrain, follow slanting ramps and ice steps heading left to join the main flow.
P4, WI4+, 60m
Climb up the golden coloured ice ramp to the little alcove on the right. Bolted anchors
P5, WI5, 70m
Climb up and left into a huge ledge just below the free standing pitch.
P6, WI5+, 40m
Steep climbing to the base of the final step. Might have a freestanding pillar to climb early season.
P7, WI5, 50m
Straight up. Can have interesting formations some years.
Stas guiding on La Pomme d'Or, january 2023.
Credit photo Caroline Ouellet.